(Feature image via Tonto Chorizo.)
With so many new fashion labels launching every season, real talent can get lost amongst a flurry of tulle, neon brights and peplums. But there are always hidden gems; people who nail the digital print, aren’t afraid of sequins or embrace an androgynous pant suit with fervour – and those are the names to keep an eye on. Some of the following emerging designers have been around the block for years, while others are relative newcomers, but they’re all definitely on their way to the top of the fashion pack in 2013.
His collections have been strutting down the catwalks of London Fashion Week for 5 years now, he’s recently collaborated with Topshop, and his threads are available on Net-A-Porter. Even with the checklist of success, this 28-year-old British designer isn’t yet a household name (despite being a fave of Alexa Chung), although we predict this will won’t last too long. Mr Anderson, previously known for his menswear designs, has recently released his womens range for SS 12/13. Slightly androgynous, with clean tailoring and the occasional ruffle, the collection stands out with eye-catching geo prints that are an instant classic. After being crowned this year’s Emerging Talent (Ready To Wear) award at LFW, he will no doubt be following in the successful footsteps of previous winners (2011′s winner was Mary Katrantzou, whose kaleidoscopic floral designs were one of the most recognisable prints of the last few years).
Alexa Chung in J.W. Anderson Source: Dear Fashion Diaries
Aje is a luxe yet nonchalant Australian label for women who crave simple, elegant and versatile pieces. Designed by best friend duo Adrian Norris and Edwina Robinson, garments are hand-sewn and embellished, made from natural fabrics – think gorgeous cottons and buttery Italian leather – and sourced from all over the world. Robinson, a stylist and journalist formerly of RUSSH Magazine, combined with Norris, who studied Fine Art in Italy, to create a brand that is now a celebrity staple – worn by the likes of Kate Moss, Rachel Zoe, and Nicole Warne ofgarypeppervintage. Although they made their Mercedes-Benz Sydney Fashion Week debut only this year, the pair have been kicking around for about 5 years now, and like their pieces, the label looks designed to last the tests of time.
Founded in early 2011, Australian newcomers KAHLO might not have a whole lot of years under their belt, but their aesthetic is as confident as seasoned designers. Inspired by art, travel and memory, creative minds Rachelle Sinclair and Fay Ogunbadejo create garments that embody simplicity, strength and youth for wearers that wish to feel instantly empowered.
With a masterful quality and aesthetic that is distinctive yet subtle, the wardrobe staples beg for repeat wears, and it’s no surprise that the superbly crafted threads have been shown off by fashion heavyweights such as Rumi Neely and Harper’s Bazaar fashion editor Christine Centenera. The pair’s clean lines and sensuous leather have been shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, featured in Oyster, FALLEN and Shop Til You Drop, and after making appearances on respected fashion blogs including Fashion Toast and 4th and Bleeker, 2013 will surely see them gain more momentum.
Forget all those painfully bright, cookie-cutter kaleido prints cluttering the windows of every shop in town. Adi Setiadi at An Ode to No One has got it right, fusing 3-D geometric prints with a more muted palate and sleek tailoring to create a sexy sci-fi look that has even been called Tron-esque. His spring/summer collection offers sharp trousers, structured party dresses and some racy splits that come together to create a stylized femininity that is at once flirty and sartorially serious. Setiadi created the label in 2008 after working for respected designers Akira and Nicola Finetti, and clearly honed in on what the public craves – edgy, bang on trend clothes with some serious sex appeal.
His world-first 3-D digital print garnered him international praise, Missy Higgins repped his dress at the ARIAs, and in 2011 Setiadi was awarded the 5th annual Chambord Shine Award. A diffusion line called A.D. recently appeared in Sportsgirl, and An Ode to No One looks to be making an impression on the Australian fashion scene for a long time to come.
While the phrase ‘luxury knitwear’ might bring to mind posh old men in forest green jumpers sipping Pimms, the designs of British womenswear label Leutton Postle are anything but boring. A collaboration between recent Central Saint Martins graduates Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle, the range transcends trends, focusing on colour, unusual texture and vivacious patterns for the offbeat individual. An incredible attention to detail is obvious, with the designers enthusing each handmade garment is a “labour of love”, embellished with intricate beading, tassels and sparkle. Their SS 12/13 range was a mishmash of Scottish argyle, Japanese attitude and African tribal prints, and saw the designers pushing past traditional notions of knitwear to create a unique range which included a knitted tailored shirt (check out the full catwalk video here).
The joyful designs have been lauded by Susie Bubble and the international fashion press (including i-D and Because London), and after being awarded the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award, the future looks (rainbow) bright for Leutton Postle.
Published at LUNA Digital.